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How To Fix A Leaking Thermostat Housing

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I'm not sure how often this happens because it hasn't happened to me or anyone I know before. But our dryer seems to be getting too hot during cycles. The clothes are way too hot when they come out, even on the lower settings. The heater element is still cycling on and off though which is think is normal. I've already checked the flow and the vents and everything seems to be square there. What would you recommend I check next. Do you think it's the thermostat?

Hi Kealan, we recommend trying to dry a load with the vent unhooked from your dryer. If you are still experiencing these symptoms you could have a faulty dryer cycling thermostat WP3387134. I hope this helps!

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Is there a way to test the thermal interna bias switch to be sure it is the problem

For model number Ler7646ez2

Hello Jerry, thank you for contacting us. With a multimeter you can test the two large terminals on the thermostat, they should read closed for continuity and the two small ones should show an ohms resistance value. We hope this helps and good luck with the repair!

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Have seen 2 different answers about continuity on thermostat internal bias. One said both should read 0 at room temperature. The other said the small terminals will read an "ohm value". Which is correct?

Hi Tony, Thank you for the question. You would need to check the outer 2 terminals on the thermostat for continuity. If this checks ok then test the inner smaller terminals for resistance of 4.5K ohms. Hope this helps!

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My dryer is taking too long to dry the clothes in it and I am not over filling it. My friend suggested a blockage but we already checked for that. We also tried using the different settings and the only one that seems to be buggy and not working is the highest setting. So do you have any suggestions of parts to check or tests to try to fix this.

Hi Dylan, we recommend testing the temperature coming from the dryer when on high heat, which should be about 110 (low end) to 160 (high end) degrees. If your dryer is cycling before it hits the 150 degrees, you most likely have a faulty cycling thermostat. This can be tested with a multi-meter with temperature. Best of luck with this repair!

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Greetings, i recently replaced the thermal fuse, cleared the venting ducts, etc. The dryer started up right away, i thought all was well. However, the next day my daughter informed me that her dryer had stopped working again after drying a tablecloth for approximately 20 minutes. I suspect the thermostat is not cycling properly and is causing the dryer too overheat and blow the thermal fuse. Wondering if i should replace the thermostat and the thermal fuse(again). Thank you very much.

For model number IED4400VQ1

Hello Steve, thank you for your question. I would recommend changing the fuse, as well as the Thermostat, Internal-Bias WP3387134. This thermostat is in tune with the temperature of your dryer and regulates it in order to maintain a certain temperature. This thermostat reaches a temperature of 155 degrees, turns off, and then turns on again once it has dropped by 25 degrees. If the thermostat isn't turning off, the unit will overheat and the fuse will blow. I hope this helps!

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My dryer is not heating. Trouble shooting leads me to the internal-bias thermostat. Testing with an ohm meter shows continuity between the large terminals and open between the small terminals. Should the small ones read continuity or some resistance reading?

For model number 110.70702990

Hi Marty, Thank you for your question. Both sets of prongs should read 0 ohms at room temperature. If your meter needle does not move or your display does not change, the part is bad and will need to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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My dryer is turning on and "working" but it is not heating properly. It is a gas dryer and it doesn't seem to have a problem igniting. What should I check?

Hi Leo, we recommend testing the coils 279834 to see if they are faulty. You can test them using a multi-meter tool. Please let us know if you have any further questions.

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How do you test thermostat internal-bias

For model number lgr4634pq0

Hi Vic, Thank you for your inquiry. To test to see if the internal bias thermostat is working you will need to use a multimeter to check the continuity of the part. I hope this helps. Thank you and have a great day!

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None of the components are testing bad. ? The thermal fuse, the high temp sensors, start switch, door switch, all are showing continuity or resistance. The heating element is good. I have only 2 choices left. The timer or the motor. The motor is last as it is hard to get to. The problems began when the timed dry cycle quit heating as it ran. So i used the auto-sense cycle and it worked great. Problem solved for 6 months. Yesterday i put the clothes in and set the timer and pushed start. Nothing! No hum, no buzz, nothing. Not on any cycle. Both parts left are expensive. So, is there a go, no go test for the motor? Would you be inclined to suspect the timer? How can i be sure it is one or the other? Thank you for the help.

For model number EED4400WQ0

Hello Danny, thank you for contacting us. It does not sound like an issue with the motor. It sounds like it would be the timer. The dryer timer is used to control the unit's cycles by regulating the length of time that power is directed to each setting. If it becomes faulty it could cause nothing to happen when you start a cycle or only work on certain cycles. Hope this helps!

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Related Parts:

How many ohms should the thermostat read when tested with a multi-meter?

For model number KEYE760WWH1

Hi Paul, Thank you for your question. Your meter should be set at the lowest setting. The thermostat should read 0 ohms. If your meter does not move when you test the part, it will have to be replaced. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.

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How To Fix A Leaking Thermostat Housing

Source: https://www.partselect.com/PS11741405-Whirlpool-WP3387134-Dryer-Cycling-Thermostat.htm

Posted by: brownliandn.blogspot.com

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